Відео

Happy to help!

Right after I commented this I found your Thingiverse, thankyou sir. While I am at it Thankyou for this video, it is my constant reference for what I hope to achieve with my R2 as well as a blueprint for how to achieve it.

I designed them. They are on my prinables page www.printables.com/model/582773-r2-d2-teeces-marcduino-mrbaddely-holoservo-mount

Yes

Yes

Don’t worry, there is a lot of information on Arduino programming available.

I’ll test v6 firmware and report back.

SithBusters!

Tank mode is just the nomenclature of this style of mixing. It’s also called arcade style. If your R2 is driving fine, there is no need to change anything. This video was made to get someone new to RC to a drivable state. I searched all of the internet trying to figure out how to do a mix like this for my first RC droid and there was not a video for it. This video, hopefully, fills that gap.

It's not about a difference in the droid's movement so much as a difference in how you get those movements from the radio. Tank mixing lets you combine the horizontal and vertical axes of a single gimbal in such a way that it can control both of the tracks (or wheels) freeing up the second stick for other purposes. This way, left/right on that stick rotates/steers the droid, and up/down moves it forward and reverse. The alternative control scheme is typically to use the vertical axis of the left stick to control the left track, and the vertical axis of the right stick for the right-hand track. With this method, you've simply moved the tank mixing off of the radio and into your brain. The main (only?) advantage of this second control scheme is that it's a bit more straightforward to implement ... each stick controls one motor directly. The downside is that separating the droid's movement inputs from each other like that can be sub-optimal, especially when your droid has other multi-axis inputs that should logically be grouped together and/or suggest use of a gimbal's vertical axis. For example, consider the droid in my profile pic, LD-F1. In addition to the tank drive, he can both nod his head front-back and tilt it left-right (he can also look to either side, but I use a potentiometer for that). Intuition suggests using a vertical axis for nodding and a horizontal axis for tilting, ideally on the same stick. I can easily do that with the gimbal left free by in-radio tank mixing. On the second control scheme, I'd be forced to not only split LD-F1's locomotion onto two different sticks, I'd also have to split his head motion as well, and I'd have to control the front-back nodding motion by moving one of those stick left-right. It doesn't make sense from a puppeteering standpoint. It can also be weird to control. Say I'm turning him, driving the right track forward by moving the right stick up ... but I accidentally nudge the stick a bit to one side. Suddenly, his head is also either tilting or nodding, depending which stick I mapped those to. Putting a bit of deadband on the sticks (so slight deflections away from the center of each axis won't trigger that axis to move) can mitigate that, but it's best to avoid the issue altogether by grouping related functions on one stick.

@@TrollandError Excellent explanation. I cut and pasted your explanation into my "Notebook" for programming for future reference. Thanks again. Easily understood what you provided.

@@GunnerAl9 I should also note that some control systems don't necessarily even have two sticks to use with that second control setup. SHADOW, for example, can be used to drive a droid with only one single-stick PS3 Nav controller (you can also use two of them though). Tank mixing would be required for this setup, and would have to be programmed into the code running on the Arduino or whatever. When I did my first build (Artie Deco from Hardware Wars), SHADOW didn't have built-in tank mixing. It relied on the Sabertooth motor controllers to do the tank mixing for you. Since Artie uses regular R/C speed controllers that don't do that, I ended up having to code the tank mixing formula into it myself.

Thanks!

He is made with PETG

@@TheEebel Noice, what control system is he equipped with,

@@SLAVKINGRED He is using Kyber Control

@@TheEebel i see,

When you write a sequence the Pololu program gives it a number. If using Kyber, you have to have an extra sequence at the beginning that will not get called(sequence #0). Look at the sequence script and you will see the sequence listed in numerical order. That is where you know which sequence is which.

pro build sir

facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory/permalink/754526082917458/

Thank you so much! Ill be sure to share pics once its done, still a long way to go. :) @@TheEebel

Astromech.net is the on ramp for droid building. There are lots of ways to do it depending on your skill and budget. If you want to buy one, Disney sells them for $25K. They are substantially less costly to build. I have a video on this subject. ua-cam.com/video/KhmOrDFa3Rk/v-deo.htmlsi=IaJkJPBzdAGuiMRZ

Hit me up on Facebook and I’ll see what I can do. facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory/

I usually run about ten hours a day at conventions. He is usually round 50% charged at the end of the day.

I don’t sell Kyber. I stared my droid journey with SHADOW-MD. It was/is awesome! However, Bluetooth, although inexpensive has a fundamental flaw. It cannot survive today’s Bluetooth saturated conventions. My first taste of this was with my, at the time, Bluetooth R5. I was at a convention with 20,000 people crammed into a convention hall and he was uncontrollable. Just too many folks with phones.This saturated and jammed the Bluetooth frequencies. Modern Radio control transmitters are effectively immune to this problem because they use frequency hopping Yes, the is a cost to this tech and the controllers are big and visible to the audience(although if you are clever it is possible to mitigate this by standing behind the observer or use other ‘magician’ techniques. You can certainly start with Bluetooth. However, in the long run, if you find that you are passionate about this hobby/profession, RC is really the best tech.

@@TheEebel very good points given the use cases